Wednesday, 29 June 2011

A day that finally went to plan!

Today I headed up to Space hunter wall (Cheddar) with the intention of mainly getting Coxy up Fornicator Simulator (8a) before the summer access ban comes in on friday and to have a little play on Galacticus (8b).

The day started with a romp up the hill and easy abseil down the gully. Brilliant we got there with no problems. As I pulled on to the 6b+, Beverly's Wall to warm up it started to rain. I got a little damp but shrugged it off as a passing shower. After Matt had warmed up and I had gone up a second 6B, The Missionary, this passing shower had got a little heavier. It wasn't looking very hopeful. After 15 minutes it had finally passed and Coxy was happy again.

Matt racked up and started up the 8a. He was just planning to remind him self of the moves and replace the bit of tat extending the bolt on the lip. Once the tat was replaced he proceeded to crush the crux and finish putting the rest of the draws in with ease.

My Turn. The 6c (Bush Administrator) wall leading up to the roof was good climbing and got thinner towards the top. I dropped it going into the roof so took a rest and worked out the moves. I found a cheeky toe hook and pulled through the crux quicker than I expected. Now just the crux of Hyperspace. This was a long tentative move from a gaston out to the arete with bad feet. I moved through that first go which led to one more hard move pulling the lip of the second roof. The top head wall was short and when I arrived at the top I had a pretty good feeling it would go today.By the time I got down Matt was ready to go. He breezed up the start, clipped the extender over the lip and started through the crux. With a little power squeak he arrived at the rest just before the top roof. A quick shake and a few moves right on under cuts he pulled through the roof and hit the jug around the lip. Boom! A couple of easy moves and an extremely happy Cox found him self at the chains.

Matt pulling through the crux on Fornicator

By the time Matt had stripped the draws out I was ready. I tied in and started up the bottom wall. I got into the roof and put the toe hook in, pulled the crux and as I hit the hold the toe popped. I lowered to the floor pulled the rope and set off again. This time I made sure the toe was in right, I matched the hold and pulled through the crux. I clipped the next bolt, a quick chalk then made the precarious move out to the arete. I just stuck it and moved onto the top roof. One last hard pull through the roof and I latched the jugs but only just. I was pretty pumped but super psyched to be at the chains.

Me on the upper crux of Galacticus

All in all a good day, we did what we came for, we got out safe and Matt and I made it to work on time.

Ben West

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