Monday, 4 July 2011

They say bad news comes in sets of three...well... By Jen Wilby

Following my trip to Catalunya I decided to take some "time out" and just climb. Not to focus on training or anything specific but to just enjoy the climbing. Once I got the resting out of the way I decided to change the 4-3-2-1 training cycle I had before Spain to focus on power and power endurance with pure endurance sessions once a week. Within a week, I tore my bicep and my shoulder impingement returned. Gutted! So I took some more time out and just climbed easy stuff to keep going - too scared to trying anything powerful incase I made the bicep worse.

I managed to ease back into it and soon started to try harder problems and routes. I focussed on my red pointing technique - working a route at RCC which I enjoyed and that was challenging. I finally got it - the difference was not resting. I was forcing a rest which just got me pumped. On my last go I decided to climb straight through - and it went.

Two nights later I was boudlering at RCC, desperate to get outside, my mates and I decided to take some time out during the week to head to Malham - which I was very excited about. So the training had to start again. I was working a problem, and on my 5th go, stepped off onto the mat and my legs went and ended up laid on the mat unable to get up. I took a visit to the hospital, where 7 hours later I left with a possible fracture in my spine. Gutted! So, typically I am going for a 2nd opinion to see what the craic is :).

In the mean time, its rest and food :) Malham will have to wait and I hope I am back to climbing, even if I'm not fit, so I can go to the RCC Summer Festival.

Fingers crossed!

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