Thursday, 1 September 2011

51 days in Paradise by Adam Bailes

There And Back Again
So here we are in again. I landed back in the uk just under a week ago and its a big change from living in South Africa. In a few words Rocklands is one of the best places i have ever climbed, not just because of the quality of so many lines but the sheer number of routes and the amazing people that were there to share the exsperience with. After doing almost no boulderin before i had to adapt pretty quick and felt i really had my work cut out.

Why ?
Iv never been a boulderer and i have to admit there was a time when i was wondering what i had got myself into, going on a boldering trip to the other side of the world. I always want to push my own limits especially in other areas of climbing. I always enjoy most the style of climbing that i happen to be doing at the time. But throughout the trip i always had projects for the coming winter in the back of my mind. I'd wanted to get stronger for the local grit and figured throwing myself in the deep end couldn't be a better way to do so.

Simply the most perfect sunset. Night after night we watched the deep orange merge with the black of the valley as the sun dissapeares over the horizon.

Welcome to rocklands
Scott tells me this could be the second ascent ? tbh it doesnt really matter, This is one of the lines that a sore months before i even dream't of coming to Rocklands and was somthing i allways wanted come and repeat. Its one of the most beautiful and breath taking lines iv ever done. especially pulling on 20ft of the ground, and thats just the start.

Planet Rocklands
Living in Rocklands is like no other place in the world. Its almost a world of its own. Not just because of the crazy field of rock as far as the eye can see, but the community and sanctuary of the small valley. You really feel at home and you really feel safe which means you can just relax into the simple flow of life. All you have to worry about is climbing, which for me meant i could consentrate even more on my goals for the trip. Then before you know it, you only have 2 weeks left and theres still hundreds of places to go and even more problems you want to try.

Home From Home
In Rocklands i really felt at home. not in a soppy sence of being safe and wanting to live there until the end of my days way. But you just feel your in the right place. Being surrounded by people from all over the world, all grouped togeather for the same reason. On this trip I'v met people who have come from all different nationalities, cultures and backgrounds and im happy to call many of them my friends.

Eye Candy
Rocklands landscape is like a kaleidoscope on roids. The color of the hole valley is a mix of incredible vibrant greens with beautiful golden browns and wildlife everywere you look. even the barking dogs in the morning doesn't put a downer on you'r day.

Staying with Italians deffinately increased my coffie drinking.. 51 days x 2-4 cups a day = (ALOT)

"Aint got no style"
So iv talked to many people and i don't think Rocklands can really be described as a certain style of climbing. Each line and sector seems to have aspects that you relate to climbing from hundreds of diffrent areas. Whether its highballs of the uk, slopers of font or Haynes crimps of the US.

Green mamba 8a+ one of my favourate lines involving almost every kind of move and hold you can imagen.


Green Mamba 8a+
The Ampatheature 8a+

Baracudar 8a
solor power 8a

star gate 7c+
black Mango 7c+
Jaws 7c

Pinatage 7b+
The Rino 7b+ flash
Roadside Dimno 7b+
Stargate face 7b+
a Question of balance 7b


Welcome to rocklands

sunset arete 7a
creaking hights 6c

plus many,many more

Black Mango Chutney 7c+ one of the first lines you see from the car park at 8 day rain and one ill always remember ,super sharp and super crimpy up an amazing face.

Over the hole two month trip we only had about 5 days of rain but when it rained it apsalutely poured, leaving us sat inside all day playing chess and nursing our sore skin. On the bright side heavy rain brought amazing cold conditions with low humidity meaning after a forced rest day you could get back on the quick drying rock and try out your current hardest project.

Over the last weeks i feel iv really learned alot. Iv enjoi'd trying other styles of climbing and Rocklands was definately the place to birth a love of boldering. In a few weeks iv managed to push my own limits and perform to a standard im really happy with and more importantly i feel even more motivated to keep pushing towards new potential.

"Let the psyche be with you"

Photo's by
Michele Caminati
Marco Erspamer
Adam Bailes
Bernhard Fiedler

1 comment:

  1. Sorry.... thats a massive post !!!! got a bit carried away