I look forward to the day I'm confident and comfortable in the Santa Linya cave with no jam or creme egg in sight.
As well as the life change and training, this month saw the weather change for some grit sessions - something which will be missed next year. The first weekend out I prepared to do some mileage to get the grit flow back following a summer of limestone routes. We headed to Cratcliffe, did a few easy warm up's then somehow got sucked into trying very hard for the rest of the day - the total opposite to the plan. I got psyched. The eye opener for me was at Rowtor, and amazingly odd place of caves and rooms in the rocks. We looked at Yogurt Hypnotist, an over hanging 7b arete type climb. Very huggy and crimpy - not my style. Figured I should have go - much to my suprise. I loved it. I had a few goes, each go shaving more and more skin off the fingertips, so I got my beta and left - totally psyched to get back.
After doing some fantastic warm ups such as Morrell's Wall - I headed to the amazing Flying Arete - awesome problem on a stand alone block.
After more bloulder hopping we ended up at Demon Wall Roof - something which I have always aspired to do but never got on. I managed to get to the thin holds on the roof but am too small to use the toe hook and not flexible enough or small enough to use the heel hook. I'm psyched to get back and try out more beta or just pull harder!!!
I managed to get my climbing partner, who has hands the size of an ape and a love of over hanging "huggy" problems onto Pebble Wall, I convinced him it was amazing (which to me it was - my first ever V5!)...what followed was an amusing time of cursing and numerous "one last go" ...revenge for the jam!
Since then the weather turned so its been back to training with weekends at The Castle Climbing Centre - amazing - the quality of the problems there is amazing and certainly worth a trip.
Its back to more packing, moving and jam removing - roll on 2012.