I started off the weekend well, topping my first qualifier, a sustained crimpy climb. I couldn’t help however, but to keep the belayer on his toes, clipping from the last hold to do a sketchy double clip to the top!
|Qualifier 1, Senior Lead|
Never the less, this still securely got me into the final in 4th place. The isolation was good, the set out made it possible for us to have the whole of the bouldering wall, giving all the competitors space to warm up. The atmosphere was good, everyone warming up together, all waiting for our time to be called out. When it was my turn, I was feeling psyched, well warmed up for the rout ahead, trying to think of that podium spot. I walk up to my rout, gave it one last read, I dusted my shoes off on my leg, I look down, blood dripped down my shin. Ah, not good. A scab had been dusted off along with the grit. Never mind, time concentrate on the climb! I started well, climbing efficiently; the climb winding its way round the edge of the main overhang. I was ¼ of the way up, I knew I had to keep going, but my head, I realised I was too calm. I wanted to climb higher, but the fight wasn’t as strong a usual, I got to a cruxy sequence, I knew the next hold wasn’t positive, a bad slopa, or so I had in my head. I went for it but that fight wasn’t there to stick the hold; I came down, knowing I just didn’t try hard enough. However at the end of the day, I still got 4th place, not a bad position to have!
|Podium! John standing in for Alexia!!|
I entered it for the fun, I knew I would be no good. Having only climbed on the speed wall a couple of times, a year before, and never having trained my speed I didn’t expect much. Never the less, the qualifiers went on and then the semi’s, then quarter finals and I realised I was in for a chance. The thought occurred to me that I could actually become British speed champion. It seemed obscure, but possible. And then I suddenly found my self getting nervous. I was ‘on my marks’ for 1st or 2nd place against Alexia Basch and I suddenly realised I wanted to win, I wanted the title! And then I was off. I was tired from the weekend but kept pushing, I could see Alexia next to me, climbing as fast (/ as slow), catching me up, but then I was hitting the top, 0.1 seconds before Alexia, with my fastest time and I am now British Junior Speed Champion with a speed of… wait for it… 25.88 seconds!!
It was an amazing weekend, climbing on the amazing new awesome walls and all I can say is I’m psyched to get training on it for the youth open in December!! A big thank you to Evolve for my new Shaman LV’s, an amazing fit, love the bump!!