Saturday, 2 August 2014

Experimentation By Jen Wilby

" Walk your talk and believe in yourself, because at the end of the day, the dumbbell and diet don't get you in shape. It's your accountability to your word."

This month has been all about the dumbbells and diet, and I am not talking about diet in the short term, but about a long running "diet" which is ultimately about a healthy life style. With the goal being at optimum fighting weight before the Grit season arrives. How do you know what your fighting weight is? It's the balance of being light enough that your power to weight ratio feel's good, you do not struggle with your body weight, yet it's also about being able to function at this weight, being able to work hard, recover and function normally. Either side of this balance and you won't be at your optimum. This is a trial and error process, and a very personal one, only you know where it is, and be honest about it. Personally for me, I was last at my fighting weight in 2011, when I was training for routes. Doing laps and laps of routes in high temperatures, which meant, the weight fell off. Since 2011 I have struggled to get back to this weight, the reason being I'm not doing routes, so I'm not doing the endurance work, and it required a lot of discipline, which diminishes the older and older I get. This isn't a sob story, it's fact. 

The last training cycle involved eating what ever I fancied, when ever I fancied it. There were times, especially during the strength phase that I was exhausted, physically and mentally, sometimes, training just couldn't happen. It was sweet while it lastest :) This cycle I've made some changes thanks to Optimal State

The first thing I did during the scheduled two weeks off between cycles was go through a detox. It was hard to find the right one, so it was a bit of a gamble. The detox was for 9 days The first two days involved no food, yup, two whole days of no food.

During these I consumed a lot of Aloe Vera Gel, which is possibly the worst tasting thing ever. This was to flush out the system. I also had a lot of green tea, which is what I think saved me. The two day's were hard and all I thought about was food. However, at the end of the two days, I realized that the body does not need a great deal in order to function. My body does need a bit more to be sociable though :) The following seven days involved having the usual gel and supplements, but with the introduction of a certain size meal. What was interesting about this, was that I couldn't eat the full meal in one hit and it showed me that I don't eat, on a normal day, that much food anyway. So I split the food up so I ate at regular intervals, about every three hours. 
At the end of the nine days, I felt amazing, lost 5kgs, which I feel could be more if I exercised during this, and I had a lot of energy. I never realized this was possible with so little food. It proved that it's all about what you put it and until you cut out the sugar, caffeine and all the other additives, you don't know how much better you could feel. 
After the nine days, I went back to drinking coffee, tea, eating less than ideal foods, and I felt horrific and I mean awful! So now it's all about moderation, with a view to do the nine days again before the Grit season, but to sustain that throughout, to hit the optimal fighting weight.

The first sustainable change is the introduction of the Protein supplement. I've dabbled with this many years ago, but not consistently. At the moment I add the Natural Nutrients Grass Fed Whey Protein. It is a complete protein source and more details can be found on the link above. I add this to a smoothie each morning. My favorite smoothie for anyone who wants to try it came courtesy of Lanch Green. 

It includes:
  • Hemp Milk - nice nutty taste
  • 1 Banana
  • Blueberries
  • Milled Hemp & Flaxseed (various combinations available with Q10, B12 additions)
  • Whey Protein
  • Brain Octane Oil which provides energy for the brain, or MCT Oil which is like coconut oil but better. 
  • A table spoon of peanut butter (check for palm oil folks!) Meridan do a good "free from" butter. 

This tastes awesome, and you can add what ever you fancy, but here you have the raw ingredients for a great set up for the day. I make sure I have this every day and I am recovering way better than in the first cycle. Sure I ache, but the energy levels stay high so I am able to train better for longer, or harder for a shorter time. I have my pick really, which was not the case before. I have tried other Protein sources but most are full of loads of extra stuff which is pretty poor for you, there is an article here on the differences:

The second sustainable change is to take, a number of times a day, BCAA's (Branched Chain Amino Acid), B12 and Iron supplements. The BCAA's help promote recovery and fatigue. With this and the B12, again, energy levels are improved. Win win! I have not introduced the Bullet Proof yet but I will when the season starts.  If anyone has any questions on the above just drop me a line, or comment.

So, with all this extra energy and recovery, what have a done with the dumbells? 

Alot of the above! Single, max strength pull up. One pull up, that's all! If you follow the blogs, you will know my weakness by a country mile, is the ability to control and pull my own body weight. So this strength phase is all about that. 

Strength training has included a bit of work on the rings, I'm having to be super careful due to the strain puts on the tendons, and it's all about the dips with the aim of improving top outs and to stop them from being so comical :) Sorry folks!

The other thing I have been experimenting with it one arm hangs on this beauty:
They are, by far, the hardest thing I have ever had to try and do. Should be worth it though.

At the start of the year I had a very specific training plan and was convinced I could stick to it 100%, however, sometimes things just get in the way (by choice!).

During these time's I do get a guilt trip and wonder if I will come to regret it. When you are training and not climbing it's difficult to get a perspective of what's going on and why you are doing it. I am really looking forward to the season up here, there are so many crags which I have not explored and it's going to be a whole winter of new adventures.

One thing that has been keeping me busy is The Depot's Summer Bouldering League. It's a series of four rounds with a final in September. Climbers have about a month to try to complete 30 blocs, with the last round being double points. So all to play for. There is a lot to be said for walking and talking and believing in yourself, however, those of you know follow know, when it comes to comp's the nerves kick in. Always have done. The aim of competing in the Summer League was to get used to trying hard. So many times, as a boulderer, I just drop off and know, I can always try again. However, when there are points at stake, sometimes it just makes you try that little but harder. To this day, I still have no confidence when climbing in front of people. I will actually wait to try a bloc until the wall / area is almost empty, even then I make stupid mistakes, mis-read blocs and generally have a total wobble. Yet, if these were not "comp blocs" I can almost bet that I would be fine, read the problem's right and climb well. Is it the seven headed dragon? How can it be when I am fully into the training cycle, fingers open up, core fails, how can I have high expectations at an indoor comp, especially when I find indoor climbing so hard? It seems I do, making silly mistakes, like getting to the last move, and then not being able to get there again are so frustrating, and as soon as I have a days rest and get back on them, I fly through them. I wonder why the loyalty lies.
I guess the test will be if the weather conditions are perfect when it is the final...

I'm still doing OK, given the mega opponents in 1st & 2nd!

That's all about July has had to offer, a lot of experimentation with training and nutrition. Roll on another two months of this and see what happens.

Happy Climbing!

No comments:

Post a Comment