The Nexxo
Since
I first put on a pair of Shamans two years years ago they have been my go to
shoe for almost everything. However, this may have changed. I started wearing
Nexxo, the latest shoe in the Evolv Sharma Signature Series, towards the end of
the summer and have been impressed. In fact, I was sold before I put them on.
The slick and sexy looking shoe looks more like a high end fashionable football
boot than nerdy climbing shoe. So regardless of performance at least you’ll
look good in a pair – winner! So far I have used them on a number of sport
climbing trips testing them on short steep routes in the UK through to 40m endro
fests in Yangshuo, China. I like the aggressive, downturned asymmetric profile
meaning gripping footholds on steep terrain is easy. Like the Shaman, the Nexxo
features the Love Bump at the bottom of your toes and the Knuckle Box at the
top put your toes into a powerful position that's also incredibly comfortable.
For those that surf I guess you could make the comparison to when split toe
wetsuit boots first came out. This feels a little strange at first but once
used to it you can really notice the difference in power you can get through
your feet on poor footholds. I’d hesitate to go back to wearing a shoe that
didn’t have this feature now. It really does work! Further bonuses I’ve encountered
is that the Nexxo provides lots of toe power yet keeps the sensitivity allowing
your footwork to feel precise and powerful standing on the tiniest edges. Evolv
took its trademark Trax rubber and shaved it down in critical areas to give
your foot the dexterity it needs for precision on technical climbs. I must concur
that this seems to have worked quite well. The dynamic, precision shape of the
toe box allowed me to utilise tiny pockets effectively and with confidence;
something I was grateful of on the crux of China Climb 8c. Those who have climbed with me
will know that a love to use the whole shoe to sneak my way around hard moves,
toe hooks, drags, footlocks and more. This is where the Nexxo exceeds the
Shaman with lots of rubber atop the foot made toe hooking, heel
toes and footlocking exceptionally great. Like the Shaman, the shoe strives to
reach that fine balance between sensitivity and support, comfort, and
performance, and meets those expectations for what a great performance shoe should
be. I therefore found, once broken in, the Nexxo was great for long training
sessions I’d been putting in prior to my China trip.
To summarise, for
steep climbing of any variety, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better, more
powerful edging shoe than Evolv Nexxo; a great high-performance slipper that
does it all well whilst being surprisingly comfortable for a high performance
shoe. I can’t imagine a better shoe to take on a two month trip in the states
next month.
No comments:
Post a Comment