You must excuse my
lack of updates, I know you have heard this many times from many people and I don’t
deserve any sympathy but I have just
been so busy! Here me out, enjoy and judge for yourself.
I left you hanging in Ceuse, south of France. The climbing
had been to the top, the level pushed and the lifestyle simplified - to
perfection. But my body could only take so much of this extremely physical lifestyle
and as my time to leave arrived my aching limbs embraced change.
A complimentary t-shirt rewarding the successful completion
of 3 weeks at Camp Guerins in my pack I headed South East to the Ariege.
Spending the next two weeks with the family was amazing, a proper bed and real
mother meals rehabilitated me but my arms never quite got fresh again even with
2 full days off. Frustratingly I was on the back end of peak performance right
on time after 3 weeks of peak. It was still a great climbing trip and I climbed
on some wicked routes. Highlights were climbing Octopus my only 8a out there in
an unlikely looking cave that yielded some awesome lines, I was schooled in the
3rd dimension with several full rotations of climbing direction
required on some of the easier routes. A stunning 7c+ soaring 40m out of the massive
cave of Genat from 15m up a 6a slab the climbing turned into the most exciting,
exposed and heart racing climbing you can get on a sport route. This was all
good fun but it was hard coming to terms with a drop in standard where I had to
get the bail carabiners out for two 8a’s.
Exploring the party potential in the cave complexes surrounding the Ariege |
So I took it easy and rested, explored new areas and started
putting together a tick list for the next trip to the area, I can’t wait to
return in good condition and dispatch as many of the stunning lines as
possible. I hope to go out there with a small group of strong routers who have
never put up a line of their own and learn develop and perfect route bolting
resulting in a new area developed, some funny footage and a wealth of experience
gained from local climbers and residents. My second year at Chez Arran with
John and Anne was as pleasurable as the first and I would and do recommend their
apartments in this amazing area to anyone wanting to find a quiet top class
area with an abundance of 5* climbing, check out there website for more! http://www.chezarran.com/.
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