Previously I have not seen anyone on any of the E7′s and E8
on the pinnacle. It’s cool to see, after a week of pristine weather, three of
the E7′s and E8 margins of the mind have been climbed.
James Majot on the walk over the top of Cloggy to access the Pinnacle from the top. |
I went up to Cloggy on Tuesday with James Majot and sole
intention of climbing Authentic Desire. I previously attempted setting off up
it a couple of years ago, but later discovered that I was trying to climb up
the wrong side if the arête. Dough! I was now eager to go and do it, route
description to hand and get rid of the niggling feeling which had been eating
away at me since getting turned away.
James started us off by making a fine ascent of the axe. We
then scrambled around to find Callum musket, Ed Booth and James Mcaffee. Callum
had already climbed Authentic Desire and caff was now stuck into ‘margins if
the mind’.
I set off up AD, feeling a little bit daunted at first but
quickly got into the swing of things. The route just seemed to flow from start
to finish with high smears, big layaways and airy moves up the arête with
nothing more than small rp’s for protection. An almost improbable looking line
which climbed seamlessly.
Me on the final moves of Authentic Desire E7 6b |
Having now had a taste for this part of the cliff I returned
on Thursday with belay bitch caff. We warmed up on Octo and headed back down to
attempt ‘shaft of a dead man’. I started climbing, trying to hide the doubt
which was creeping into me from my tired arms. Caff seemed to radiate nothing
but upwards optimism, so I carried on. I continued up into a strenuous position
to arrange some ok gear (small rp’s and a lal cam) which would protect the crux
moves out left. By now I was way to pumped to continue, I reversed down for a
breather and a good tug on the gear which I was now convincing myself that it
would hold a fall. Back up again, I got through the crux with the skin on my
teeth. So pumped, stretched out and feet everywhere a few more moves up to a hollow
flake I was convinced my fingers were going to peel away. Without thinking I
stupidly placed a small cam behind it and quickly changed it to a skyhook in
fear of pushing the flack off from the wall if I fell. The next section looked
nails and I told myself I couldn’t carry on if I couldn’t find anymore gear.
Eventually I found a small rp slot in solid rock which I think I could trust. I
then spent what felt like an hour of shaking out, going up and down, up and
down before eventually figuring out how to do the next bit which felt just as
hard as the crux section again. Now totally worked I didn’t want to blow it,
mainly because I had put so much effort in and party because I didn’t want to
have to test out my gear. More tough moves, I eventually pulled my way to the
top. Totally exhausted.
Next day I came back with caff to return the belay favour.
He wanted to finish off margins of the mind. This time he climbed it
successfully to the top, despite the glaring hot sun which was in the way of
all the holds. Even with what I already knew about the reputation of the route,
seconding I was still horrified at how crap the gear was on the whole route. I
would be surprised if any of it would hold a fall.
Now wanting to tick off all the E7′s on the wall I returned
again yesterday and climbed ‘it will be alright on the night’.
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