This
last week I have spent a week climbing in the peak district. As it was Orrin Coley's
Birthday he decided to have his party at a cottage with a group of friends and
go climbing for the week.
Day 1
After
everyone arrived we decided where we would go and decided on Odin’s Cave to get
on The Dark Room. We loaded up the cars and headed off only to arrive and find
the place soaked. The route looked amazing though so would be really psyched to
get back there again soon. We decided after this that we would head off to
Raven Tor and do some bouldering there. Once we arrived I got going on warming
up. First up I did “To Hard For Mark Leach” V5, which I managed to do quite
fast. Then I wanted to get on “Perverse Reverse” V8, which is the reverse of
Weedkiller. I soon got all the moves sorted on it and then started to try and
get it done in one go. I had a few goes where I wasn’t getting very far and had
to get some better beta on it. With that done I had a really good burn on it
and got right to the last few moves on it. Rested up I went for it and managed
to stick the crux move and got the final jug. Sick. We then got news of a
footless version of To Hard for Mark Leach graded V8. Good training route. I
almost managed to flash it but pulled to hard and overshot a hold by about
three inches. I managed to get it on my third go, which I was pretty psyched
with. I then did some laps on it for training. Good day.
Day 2
Second
day saw us heading off to Stanage Plantation. Once we walked in I realised it
was going to be very hot for hard grit. I warmed up and then had a quick go on
“Zippys Traverse” V8 but I was greasing off so many of the holds. I left it
after a few goes as it was going to destroy my skin. I then had a play on “Rose
and the Self-Employed Businessmen” V7 and decided the same. To Hot. I then walked
up and re flashed “The Green Traverse” V6, then did “Ron’s Reach” V6 on my
third go and then “Green Slap” V6 on my fourth go. After these quick ascents,
we went over to do some of the highball boulders, seemed like a reasonable idea
as we had so many mats with us. I got on “Crescent Arete” and sent that. Then
went and did “Not To Be Taken Away” V5. It took me a couple of goes to get the
first move done but once I had managed it, I managed to get the rest of the
route done. Flippin’ scary route this one… After a little break I then got on
“Broken” V5 and sent it on my fourth go. Bit of a dodgy fall to get my head around
but once I had taken it a couple of times I managed to pluck up the courage and
did it. After this, Orrin wanted to get on “Big Air” which is a bit of a strange
route (watch the video here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wU5EgqRsUnw). Because of the dodgy fall we built a landing zone for it. It
had a really good landing once we had finished with it. Props to Orrin for
flashing this…
Day 3
Third
day saw us at Rubicon so that some of us could go for sport climbing and others
could do some bouldering. Me and some of the others wanted to go and check out
the cornice at Water-Cum Jolly so we walked round there only to find it
dripping wet. Still got really psyched for this place and really want to get back
there at some point. Once we walked back to Rubicon I got on a route called
“Rubicon” F7a and got the onsight on it. Amazing route. I then went on a
boulder called “Kudos” V8 that is the start of a route that I want to get on.
The boulder felt hard and it took me quite a few goes to get. I was psyched to
get this though so that next time I can get on the route for the full tick.
Everyone
then lost psyche for Rubicon, as it was pretty sharp so we grabbed an ice cream
and headed off to Curbar for some late afternoon grit. On my ticklist for this
crag was “Trackside” V6. It has been one of my nemesis problems for such a long
time. I warmed up and got on it and felt quite good on it. I kept tickling just
below the top hold and falling. I had a quite a few goes where I kept doing
this, before leaving it for another time when it is colder. I headed up to the
gorilla warfare boulder where I re did “Gorilla Warfare” V6 and started working
“Early Doors” V7. I got all the moves done on it quite fast and started to try
and link it from the ground. It took me quite a few goes and I kept dropping
the very last few moves. On what I thought would be my last go of the day I
managed to link it and get the problem done. Good day this one. Lots of
classics.
Day 4
The
fourth day saw us going back to Raven Tor where I planned on getting on some
more routes this time. I was still yet to do a route at the tor. I warmed up
going for an on sight on a route called “Sardine” F7b+ but I dropped the crux
move. I rested, got on and managed the route second go. The next route I wanted
to get on was “Tin Of” F7b. I managed to get the on sight on this route after a
very big fight. Psyched to have finally done some routes at Raven Tor and will
hopefully get some more done there soon.
Day 5
The
last day was a bit of mission as we had lost one of the cars. This meant that I
had to do two trips to the crag. And to add to this was that we had to move out
of the cottage. This meant taking our entire luggage to the crag with us. This
saw us heading back to Raven Tor for the short walk in and because it was
raining. I was absolutely shattered so had a quick play on “Chimes” F8a and
called it a day.
The
trip was really good and has got me really psyched for some more outdoor
climbing. Thanks again to Jonny White, Billy Ridal, Orrin Coley, Sarah Pashley,
Tash Allcock, Gracie Martin, Naomi Tilley, Flo Tilley and Tara Hayes for sick
trip.
I am heading
back to Rubicon next week and then at the end of the week is a trip to Fontainebleau.
Look out for a blog about these up and coming trips. Peace out peeps
Ticklist
Routes
Rubicon F7a Onsight
Tin Of F7b Onsight
Sardine F7b+ 2nd Go
Boulders
Perverse Reverse V8
Kudos V8
To Hard For Mark Leach Footless V8
Early Doors V7
Rons Reach V6
Green Slap V6
A Bigger Splash V6 Flash
Not To Be Taken Away V5
Broken V5
To Hard For Mark Leach V5
Crescent Arete V2/3
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