I write this blog on my final rest day, in dying days of a
6 month climbing binge. Since August last year I have been on a series of spur
of the moment trips to all over Europe and Asia. No plans, no ticklists, just
climbing, traveling and general bumming around. I vaguely set myself one goal
which was to onsight 8a in each country I visited and with the exception of
Luxembourg kept to my quota. The travelling, has rekindled my motivation and
drive for climbing. I love turning up to a new crag; in fact, as sad as it is,
I love the night before when you lie awake in excitement and anticipation with
sweaty tips… Here’s a (very) brief summary of my thoughts on each of the areas
I visited:
Berdorf, Luxembourg:
I like it here a lot and will defiantly return. Hassle free logistically, plus
a nice change climbing on sandstone and it’s not too far from the UK. Perfect
to break up a euro road trip! Check it out! My full thoughts and more details here.
Frankenjura, Germany:
Not really my style, but that’s what I like about it. The best thing about Jura
is that you can visit up to 4 or more crags in a day if you keen. Pick a mint
wall for your warm ups, move on to project 1, then over to project 2, finally
finish the day on one of the classic mid-grade route. Perfect! You do need to
pick your routes wisely, there are some right heifers. It’s easy to get here
from UK, 7 to 8 hours off the ferry, we drove over and still had time to get a
couple routes in the day we arrived! Unfortunately, we time are visit to coincide
with a heat wave but still we had fun, and bagged some classy routes. 
Magic Wood,
Switzerland: Hmmm, amazing but busy, super chalked, greasy grips and
unpredictable weather; but sooooo many good problems! I found the problems basic
and powerful, but that can be fun too. Amazing setting and you can ice bath in
the river at the end of your session! I went in summer, and felt it’s not the
time for hard bouldering – it was 30 degrees! Keen to go back in spring/autumn. 
Val de Mello, Italy:
Incredible scenery, and possible the best food I have ever had! Epic thunder
storms, friendly locals and winding lanes. Good climbing, but I preferred other
areas; glad I went but probably won’t return anytime soon. The drive over the
Spulgen pass from Swiss is stunning and easily tops the list for bivi spots.
South France:
Possible my favourite place to bum around living out of a car. Dirtbag lifestyle
at its best. Great weather, lots of
pastries, and tons of top notch crags. Ceuse, Verdon, Boux, st lege you will
have heard of. Baume
Rouse, Ardeche,
Lourmaran are some others that I equally enjoyed. Canny wait to get back next
summer! Psyched.
Catalunya, Spain:
Possibly the best sport climbing region in the world. The diversity of crags,
each offering top notch routes of the genre, you can see why the world’s
greatest climber has moved here. Won’t be long until I return!
Railay, Thailand:
I can see why people spend 6 months here. Amazing place to base yourself and
climb, there are so many awesome routes to do, I went crazy and did 86 routes
in three weeks. The multi pitch stuff hosts some of the best climbing I have
ever done. It’s a different vibe to a normal climbing trip but nonetheless
amazing. Top rest day tip: take and boat and go snorkelling it’s unreal!
Another contender for the best food I have had! It’s been less than a month and
I miss it already.
Antalya, Turkey: 5
star climbing, in a 5 star place! I really rate it here, a great place to hang
out with high quality climbing across a variety of styles. So peaceful, magnificent
views, too many routes to choose from, make this near top of list of perfect winter
destinations. Read more here.
The best things about these trips are the stories, epics and
adventures I have heard from other climbers. I now have a long list of new
countries and crags to check out, and can’t wait!
Cheers all,
Tom
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