After a few years spending most of my climbing time bouldering (to fit in with child care) I have been working on getting back to my teenage stamina levels, this has been pretty hard work. I no longer have the option of going to Spain or Pembroke for months at a time so instead have been doing plenty of evenings on my training board - climbing round in circles - I don't really suffer from lack of motivation but it can be hard during the winter to put the work in in a cold garage on your own. It has been nice to get out a little recently and feel like the work has lead to some noticable improvements.
One of the highlights of the early part of the year was a new little link up I did in the cave.
The line starts up the classic 8A/+ Bonnie and continues to the top of the crag. I had a brief play climbing 'ground up' but it was feeling a little too high so returned with Pete Robins to check it out from the safety of a van roof:
Once we had ferreted around the holds it felt like it would go so we returned a week later and armed with a long ladder and a drill we placed a couple of bolts. Pete has placed a fair few bolts in the last couple of years whilst undergoing the transformation from hardcore trad climbing loon to honed skinny sport climbing machine but it was a first for me, I was kinda excited but also felt a bit naughty. Up to this point I had removed around 10 bolts from various places around the uk and thought I may well never place one. It has to be said it is very easy to do.
The ascent itself felt almost anticlimatic after all the drilling excitment. There is a short video of the ascent you can watch here: http://vimeo.com/20919597
There is still some unfinished buisiness with the obvious lower start which I am keen for but with both Pete and Neil Dyer (apparently 'looking good') both interested in the same line it could develop into a fun little race!
Been busy the last few days organising a fundraser slide show, more details to come...