Thursday, 16 May 2013

Another Triple Date to Font! (This time much colder!) by Charlotte Garden

Another triple date to font! How exciting! Well I was very excited but going in February is a risky time as it could be wet or wonderful!

After settling in to our gite it was time to go and check out some rock. It was cold so friction on the rocks might have been really good if it wasn’t covered in snow.


We spent the first few days searching around for some dry rock and trying to whip stuff dry. As the week went on the weather got hotter which caused the snow to melt and drip down the rock making everything wet! But we still managed to find some low overhanging roof which wasn’t too wet and just enjoyed some classic Font climbing (until we got to slapping the top and falling off with a wet hand!)

I had just started climbing again after a shoulder injury so was slightly apprehensive because I felt like while I was still recovering it might have been easy to injure it again.

In the last two days I did the most climbing, with the best conditions. My favourite problem I climbed this trip was Tentation, 7a at the 95.2 area, I had so much fun working this problem because it wasn’t my style. It got me frustrated but hooked because when I first pulled on all the moves but the first one seemed impossible for me. I had to spend a long time working it and figuring out exactly where I wanted my feet and my body down to the smallest, most precise movements. But I wanted to climb it because I thought it looked cool, around either side of a boulder leading to an ultimate spiky spine edge. I had to guppy this then figured out my own beta of going to a really small sharp flaky crimp then popping again to a small sharp hole with some off balance feet. This was a very satisfying problem for me. J


video

We had to move out of our gite on Saturday so the other people we were with left and Cliff and I went climbing. We went to Roche aux Sabots and I did two 7a called l’Oblique and Le Jeu De Toit, I really enjoyed working these problems by myself (Cliff was resting). Unfortunately, our camera ran out of battery so we couldn't film Le Jeu De Toit. 



This trip got me psyched and discussing it with Cliff I wrote a list of things I needed to do to get fit while getting back into training, I was already running twice a week but I decided to make my running route longer and attempt a core workout that was set up to do every day for a month. My first workout was on the ferry while getting strange looks, 20 reps of 4 exercises x3, after a week it was to go up to 30 then the next week was 40 then killer week 50.

Our ferry landed at 7 and as soon as I got internet I tried watching my bro James in the final of the CWIF but for some reason my phone didn’t like it. I was already really happy for him and proud of him for getting in the final after a discussion at the start of the year when he had been really ill with man flu. He thought he had no chance of being selected to go to the European comps, and after being selected for some he then came 3rd in the CWIF! Well done James!!!

Very psyched after this enjoyable but weak week in Font!




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