Saturday, 1 February 2014

The best thing about the future is that it comes only one day at a time By Jen Wilby

Wheear 'ast tha bin sin' ah saw thee, ah saw thee?
On Ilkla Mooar baht 'at
Wheear 'ast tha bin sin' ah saw thee, ah saw thee?
Wheear 'ast tha bin sin' ah saw thee?
On Ilkla Mooar baht 'at
On Ilkla Mooar baht 'at
On Ilkla Mooar baht 'at
Tha's been a cooartin' Mary Jane
Tha's bahn' to catch thy deeath o' cowd
Then us'll ha' to bury thee
Then t'worms'll come an' eyt thee up
Then t'ducks'll come an' eyt up t'worms
Then us'll go an' eyt up t'ducks
Then us'll all ha' etten thee
That's wheear we get us ooan back

Ilkley Cow & Calf
Rest; cessation or work, exertion or activity. The concept of rest is a hot topic in climbing. How many times have you heard the conversation:

"Ouch, I've really hurt my elbows"
"Maybe you should give it a rest, or at least ease off?"
"Nah I am sure it will be OK"

Only to find out a couple of weeks later, surprise surprise, that the injury has not got better and has in fact, got worse? Don't get me wrong, I have been guilty of this many times in the past, sometimes it has worked, sometimes it hasn't. Through all of it though, I have learnt how my body reacts, when I need the rest and when it's OK to carry on. This does involve a lot of trial and error - with some less than desirable outcomes.

Since the Switzerland trip in September (Video) which I trained for, I have done no structured training. That's 4 months of no focus, no training, eating & drinking what I like. It's been fun, and I still climbed some things which I found challenging and I was excited! Resting worked - I was coming back stronger. WHOOP! Then the shoulder impingement came back, along with the flu and a house move. It all became a little too much in January and climbing soon became my last priority. Thinking about it, I love training for climbing, not just training to keep fit or any of that nonsense. I guess it shows how much I do love climbing. 

I don't think many of you would believe that I would put climbing at the bottom of my list...however there are some times in life, when to build a better future...a future you actually want, will take some sacrifice. I did get out to the Peak District when the weather was good just after New Year and I did nothing, I tried Walk On By again, but I had so little psyche - maybe it was time for more rest. Having said that, the weekend after, I had an awesome day out, doing nothing hard, just doing stuff, including Crescent Arete and Not to Be Taken Away again - some comedy gold footage to come! It seems bonkers to say that I've moved to West Yorkshire for the climbing, only to have climbing at the bottom of my list. However, that's just how it was in January. So where is the fine line between resting & getting lazy/deteriorating? I believe, personally, that line is now, its here and if I don't get back on the wagon soon, I may fall off it for some time! Which scares me, climbing's what I love and why I just moved up. Best crack on with it then! 

Better half on the system board at the Depot - Leeds
I did do bits a pieces of training in January, nothing structured mind. I managed to get to check out some walls up at my parents house, which included Climb North East and Durham Climbing Centre. It was great to go and check out some new setting. Whilst I was staying at my parents, I was looking forward to being a regular member of the TUFF Team, but due to my shoulder impingment, I thought this would be a bad idea. I was wrong. I went to one class, towards to the end of my stay at the parents, and Lanch took into account the injury, and even though the class was full, she gave me alternative exercises to do which would not aggravate the shoulder. I should have gone sooner! One of the circuits was a leg blaster, and I don't work my legs, I think I have "climbers legs" as it is - however Lanch's class absolutely killed me. I was unable to walk after the session and it took a few days for the core to recover! Thanks Lanch!

One of the core exercises within the circuit
 Video of the class I attended for anyone who is interested: TUFF Video

As Abraham Lincon said; "The best thing about the future is that it comes one day at a time", sometimes though, you have to plan ahead in order to build the future that you want - which for me, meant a move to Ilkley! YES!!!

My house - somewhere down there!
I moved back in with the parents whilst I found a house up here, in West Yorkshire and it didn't take long. Within three weeks I was moving back out again to Ilkley. They say that moving house is one of the most stressful things you can do, 12 times in 7 years = I don't want to do it again any time soon! (Except for when I move to Switzerland :D ). 

Ilkley is an amazing village, loads of places to eat, drink, walk and of course, climb! Although the weather has been shocking since we moved in 2 weeks ago. I have seen the sun once, which was promptly followed by a lot of rain! So I have been spending the time sorting the house out (still have not found the kettle), chasing Podey who is chasing sheep and heading out and around the town.

When I first moved down South, people complained about my accent - saying that they could not understand me. However, THESE northerners are another world. I walked into a bar on Thursday night, looking to get some food. The man at the bar continued to rant at me, in some dialect I did not understand, so I politely nodded and agreed before walking out. With our guests asking "What did he say?" "No idea" was my response. I have had this a number of times since, including with the Baht 'at song - which I had no clue about until I used the fantastic Google to find out :D and thank goodness for Google - maybe I won't get shot by the locals afterall. 

This weekend, the start of Feb will be spent finalising the house so I can actually live in it. The main thing to finish off is the little house of pain, which is slowly being erected in the garage:
Start of the system board in the garage
So far, my better half has managed to build a system board, AMAZING! a set up for the finger board/weighted hangs and an area for the pull up bar ( I will do pull up's one day!), with much more room to spare. It's looking good and I cannot wait to get in there and get back on it. I haven't finger trained in two years, something I feel is the next step and my tendons are probably about ready to start again. 

There is so much to look forward to, however I will be living each day as it comes! Waiting for the window in the weather before heading out to, hopefully a new crag - time to explore!

Apologies it's a bit of a naff blog - however I do feel like I have done absolutely nothing except eat, drink and climb a little - however for anyone coming to West/North Yorkshire - come visit! The weather isn't always this bad - honest. 

Happy Climbing and here's to a new start! 

Jen x

PS: Random but also very amusing Learner driver and parrot! Rife in Yorkshire!

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