Thursday, 27 November 2014

The Waiting Game – By Jen Wilby

Sat in the forest at Apremont, having a conversation with some locals about British Climbing. We expressed excitement, how quality the gritstone is and how awesome the lines are. The recipients of this excitement, at first, appeared shocked at how we described it, then they began to get intrigued and eventually keen to visit. It wasn’t long before the word “weather” was mentioned…excitement soon evaporated. British weather is a huge topic and there was a fantastic article in this months “Climb” magazine about the weekend warrior and that by Wednesday, the forecasts and being checked and the discussion begin.
It’s very true, British climbers have a very small window of opportunity to get decent conditions to be able to climb in, especially on the Gritstone.

Finishing off Westside Story at Burbage West
In 2012 we spent a significant amount of time in Font and managed to climb for about 14 of those days (Here’s a link to the last Font Blog It was time to put those daemons to rest. Our two weeks in Font was booked very last minute, based on the weather forecast and it paid off. We had about 1.5 days of rain, which meant we had about 1.5 days of forced rest. It was fantastic to go to the forest with no training or expectations. It was stunning and a good break! Although Font is very close to civilization, it is a truly magical place and offers something different every time you go. I’ve been lucky enough to preview Out of Sight 2 where Jackie discusses the fact that the climbing in Font is a turning wheel. You discover boulders which may have been first climbed over twenty years ago…but lay untouched for years. So next time you are in the forest, go for a wonder, go and get lost…you’ll uncover some gems!
Here is a short video of our trip:

Watching Out of Sight 2 also got my heart racing about climbing again, and I could not help but smile all the way through! I know in the last blog I said I was back…but I really am J I had a lot of positive response to the last blog, so thank you to those who persevered and read it. Since then I’ve become a supporter of Climb Out. Climb Out is a medium to help people discover that anyone can climb or enjoy the outdoors, anyone can make their dreams a reality”. If you want to read a little more about it, check out their facebook page here:

The weather since we have been back in the UK, has been less than ideal.

Cow & Calf should be up there somewhere
I’d like to say we are lucky to live where we do, however it was a conscious choice based on crag locations. So we are so close to many amazing places. Including the Lake District. So with a forecast of fog filled, damp weekends, we got away back to Carrock Fell and managed to pull these two of out the bag:

With the forecast not looking to improve in Yorkshire, I expect we’ll be looking to explore bouldering around the Lake District some more.

Whilst I’m not training as much – taking a “pick n mix” / “take it or leave” it approach to climbing – which is amazing, sitting here, curled up with the dogs, eating jaffa’s totally guilt free. I’m still keen to aid my recovery (no mention of the jaffa’s!). I tried out the Whey Protein before, which Marco also tried. He’s since stopped taking it for the next month to see what the difference is and he’s noticed a significant different in that he is not recovering as quick. I finished my stash of the Whey so I decided to try the Collagen Protein.

I chose this protein as not only do I want to recover quicker, I also have some serious skin issues. I’ll do a day of climbing and my skin just flakes away. The Collagen protein is designed, among other things, to revitalize skin, so I’m looking to see how this promotes skin repair. So watch this space!  (PS if you want 10% discount to give some of the stuff a try use discount code “jenwilby” … cringe!)

Now it’s time to wait.
Happy Climbing!

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